John B. Stetson Invented the Cowboy Hat
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Javi Candelas’ incredible detail brings Clint Eastwood’s rugged good looks and signature Stetson hat to life in this pencil portrait
John B. Stetson is best known for inventing the cowboy hat, a global symbol loved by men and women worldwide. Stetson hats are staples among working cowboys, cowgirls, and enthusiasts of the Western aesthetic.
How did these hats come to be, though? How did Stetson conceive the idea to create the wide-brimmed hats associated with the Wild West and, in many ways, America itself?
Discover more about Stetson, his work, and his enduring legacy in the following sections.
Stetson’s Early Life and Hatting Roots
The hatmaker who shaped the Wild West: John Batterson Stetson (1830-1906)
Born in Orange, New Jersey, in 1830, John B. Stetson was the eighth of twelve children in a family with a long history in hat-making.
His father, Stephen Stetson, was a skilled hatter. John, drawn to the craft from a young age, most likely started by running errands or helping with simple tasks. This early exposure soon blossomed into a full-fledged apprenticeship, and John left school early to immerse himself fully in the family business.
However, this promising path was cut short by a devastating diagnosis. In his early twenties, John contracted tuberculosis, a debilitating lung disease with a generally bleak outlook. Doctors offered a grim prognosis, suggesting that John wouldn’t live much longer.
Faced with this harsh reality, John made a difficult decision. He chose to leave his father’s business and the familiar comfort of his hometown.
Seeking a change of climate that might improve his health and, likely, yearning for adventure, John decided to head westward. This journey would become a defining moment in his life, transforming him from a young, skilled hatter into an innovator who would go on to create the iconic cowboy hat.
Inventing the Cowboy Hat
When he arrived in the western United States, Stetson quickly became acquainted with cowboys and their inadequate headwear, in his opinion.
Cowboys of the era often wore coonskin caps, a traditional choice for hunters and frontiersmen back east. While these caps provided some warmth, they were ill-suited for the harsh realities of the West.
For one, the fur offered little to no shade from the relentless sun, which beat mercilessly for most of the year. Additionally, the region’s damp winters and sudden downpours could quickly turn a coonskin cap into a soggy, uncomfortable mess. Perhaps the most unsettling drawback, though, was the tendency of coonskin to become a haven for unwelcome guests—fleas.
Stetson, with his background in the hat-making industry, realized that the dry climate of the West, characterized by scorching sun and sudden, violent downpours, demanded a far more practical head protection solution. He may have also been inspired by the wide-brimmed sombreros favored by Mexican vaqueros, which were better suited to the region’s intense sunlight.
This 1890 painting by Frederic Remington captures a Mexican vaquero, whose headwear inspired both the sombrero and the cowboy hat – Photo: Arctic.edu
Whatever the inspiration, Stetson began experimenting with hat designs and was determined to create something that was both functional and durable.
A legendary tale surrounds Stetson’s creation of his first wide-brimmed hat. According to the story, he used animal hides to fashion a hat with a broad brim for protection while caught in a sudden rainstorm.
While the exact details of this narrative may be fuzzy, it still highlights Stetson’s ingenuity and ability to adapt to his surroundings—both qualities that would prove invaluable in the future.
The Stetson Company’s Origin and Rise
Several years later, in 1865, Stetson decided to return to the East Coast. He set his sights on Philadelphia, which was a bustling center of industry and commerce and a perfect place to launch his new venture.
Stetson’s initial capital was limited. Fortunately, his older sister believed in his vision and loaned him $60 to get the John B. Stetson Company off the ground.
Utilizing the skills acquired during his apprenticeship with his father, Stetson focused on crafting high-quality, durable, and practical hats.
His hats were designed to withstand the harshest elements, making them ideal for rugged outdoorsmen. One of his earliest creations, developed soon after opening his business, was the now-legendary "Boss of the Plains" hat.
This hat was made from beaver felt, a luxurious and water-resistant material. It also boasted a high crown to promote better insulation.
However, the most distinctive feature of the Boss of the Plains hat was its wide brim, specifically designed to shield the wearer’s face and neck from the relentless sun. The wide brim also offered protection from rain and dust, making it a truly versatile piece of headwear.
The craftsmanship and labor behind the hat were (and still are) undeniable. In fact, it took a staggering 42 beaver belly pelts to produce just one hat!
Stetson sold his initial Boss of the Plains hat for five dollars to a grateful mule driver (the equivalent of over $100 today).
This initial sale propelled Stetson’s burgeoning business forward. He rented a small, single room that served as his hat-making factory. With a renewed sense of purpose and a handful of skilled craftspeople by his side, Stetson began churning out more hats to meet the growing demand.
Stetson was focused on more than just production. He also knew the importance of brand recognition.
To spread the word about his innovative hat design, Stetson sent individual hats to several prominent dealers in the Southwest. This strategic move was a risk, but it ultimately paid off handsomely. The dealers, impressed by the hat’s functionality and quality, placed substantial orders, propelling Stetson’s business into a period of rapid growth that would continue for the next two decades.
By 1889, the popularity of Stetson hats had exploded. They were no longer just a hit with cowboys out west; they were becoming a national phenomenon, coveted by ranchers, explorers, and everyday citizens alike.
Stetson knew he needed to expand his operations to keep up with the ever-increasing demand. He decided to construct a large, state-of-the-art factory in the Philadelphia area and solidified his company’s position as the world’s leading hat manufacturer.
Long Live the Legacy of John B. Stetson
Stetson passed away in 1906. However, his legacy lives on.
The Stetson hat has become an undeniable symbol of the American West. Today, over 100 years later, cowboys and ranchers continue to wear these hats because of their practicality and unmatched quality.
A cowboy, hat pulled low, embodies the spirit of the West as he maneuvers his herd at sunset
The popularity of Stetson hats extends far beyond working ranches as well. Musicians, actors, politicians, and other celebrities have adopted them too.
From classic film actors like John Wayne to modern country music stars, Stetsons have been a fixture on stage and screen for decades. Wild Bill Hickok, a legendary lawman, was also rarely seen without his Stetson. Presidents like Theodore Roosevelt and Dwight D. Eisenhower have sported the hats in an effort to add a touch of folksy charm to their leadership image. Even individuals outside the United States, such as Winston Churchill, have been photographed wearing Stetsons, highlighting the hat’s international recognition.
John B. Stetson’s influence on American fashion is undeniable. His company developed and popularized the cowboy hat, and it continues to be a go-to label to this day.
The Stetson brand currently offers a wide range of styles that cater to both classic tastes and contemporary trends, ensuring it retains its place in the ever-evolving landscape of American headwear.
https://thevalemagazine.com/2024/03/18/how-john-b-stetson-invented-the-cowboy-hat/